Surfin' the ROC!(b)|『与浪争锋——冲浪天堂』

The growing numbers of surfers have also caused problems. In recent years, various surfing spots have seen the rise of self-policing efforts. These involve keeping the beaches clean and respecting the order and culture of surfing. "Surfing requires studying, respecting, and merging with nature," says surfer Liu Shi-jie. "People can disappear at any moment, and when you're immersed in nature, you get a greater sense of humanity's insignificance."

What's more, surfing has rules, such as not stealing someone else's wave. In the early years of Taiwanese surfing, surfers lacked a conception of wave rights, and every year there would be people getting slammed by surfboards as a result. These incidents resulted in injuries and even deaths in some cases. The tragedies were largely caused by seasonal surfers who lacked experience.

The typhoons that come every year present an even bigger test for surfers' safety. The big waves during the typhoon season always attract surfers. There have even been instances of surfers ignoring warnings from the Coast Guard not to enter the water. In August 2011, big waves caused by Typhoon Muifa pulled a female surfer out to sea. The Coast Guard spared no effort to save her, but she had already fallen into a severe coma by the time they reached her.

"Those who surf during typhoons hurt the image of surfers," says Zhuang Chun-xin, a dentist that left Taipei and opened a clinic in Hengchun all for her love of surfing. "It's true that the biggest waves are associated with typhoons, particularly just before and just after. When the actual typhoons hit, however, experienced surfers don't go into the water because, in addition to safety concerns, the strong winds cause the waves to break extremely irregularly, making surfing impossible."

『冲浪是对大自然学习、尊敬与融合的媒介。人，随时会消失，一旦身处自然，便知人类的渺小，』冲浪客刘诗杰说。

　　此外，还包括了『不抢浪』等安全规范。早几年，游客缺乏浪权的概念，每年都会发生因抢浪而被冲浪板撞击，造成受伤、甚至致死的案例，特别是季节性的冲浪客，缺乏经验，更容易发生。

　　每年台风季节来临，冲浪者的安全更受到严重的考验和关注。台风季节大浪频频，总是吸引冲浪客拿着板子下水，甚至多次发生不听海巡人员劝导，仍执意要下水的事件。2011年 8 月，梅花台风引起的大浪，就?1名女冲浪客卷进海里，海巡人员费尽心力把她救上岸后，人已陷入重度昏迷。

　　庄淳馨离开医院的牙医师工作，到恒春执业，就是为了享受冲浪，她说：『每年有人在台风天冲浪，确实也让冲浪客的形象受损。浪最好的时候的确就是台风季，特别是台风前、后，都有完美的涌浪，但台风来袭，有经验的冲浪客不会贸然下水，因为除了安全考虑，强风吹拂，浪跑的乱七八糟的，根本无法冲浪。』

本社为尊重《台湾光华杂志》，中文原文注销，仅供参考，中英文如有不尽相符之处，敬请包涵。