Surfin' the ROC!(a)|『与浪争锋——冲浪天堂』

They live to chase waves. Their greatest joy is to stand on a surfboard. To be closer to the sea, they've even moved from the big city to places like Toucheng, Kenting, and Taitung. Their priorities are the reverse of most people's, with careers, families, and love lives all secondary.

Even in Taiwan, where surfing still hasn't gone big time, steady growth over the last decade has created a significant population of surfers, a surfing industry, and a surfing scene. Here, like everywhere, surfing isn't simply a form of physical activity. A distinct culture, sense of identity, and way of life connected to surfing are all gradually developing, too. The days of summer may have reached their end, but the surfing season isn't over. As long as the surf is up and its call is heard, surfers will continue to chase waves. As far as they are concerned, summer is endless.

Among the many households of a residential neighborhood in Hengchun is one that is a bit different, for the ties that bind aren't those of blood. At dawn, the members of this family set out in their two cars and motorcycle for the 20-minute ride to Jialeshui. They bring beach umbrellas, books, and cameras, not to mention the most important accoutrement of allurfboards. Thus begins a day of leisure. "To spend this day together, we started planning a month ago," explains Lisa, who carries a nine-foot board along the beach with her boyfriend, Yu Yung-jie, as they prepare to enter the water. In order to get closer to the beach, Lisa quit her job as a clothing designer in Taipei and moved to Hengchun. In the blink of an eye, seven years have passed.

与浪争锋?冲浪天堂

他们为逐浪而活。他们最大的幸福就是站在冲浪板上。为了与大海更加亲近，他们从大城市搬到乌石港、台中、垦丁等地。他们的生活重心与绝大多数人截然不同。事业、家庭、爱情对于他们而言只是次要的。

　　尽管在台湾，冲浪仍属于小众活动，但近 10 年来的稳定发展，已经产生可观的冲浪人口、冲浪产业和冲浪风景。台湾跟全世界其他国家一样，冲浪已不仅是单纯运动，相关的文化、身分表征和生活方式正逐步发展。夏日也许已逐渐接近尾声，但冲浪的季节还没有过去，只要海上还有浪，只要心情还在，他们的追逐就会一直持续。对他们来说，夏天永远不结束。

　　在恒春某条巷子里的住宅区，住宅里有很多家庭，跟其他家庭不同的是，有个『家』，维系家人之间的不是血缘关系。这一天，是他们难得的『家聚』，一大早，一家人分乘 2 部汽车和 1 部机车，花了 20 分钟的车程来到佳乐水，一群人搬出了大洋伞、书和相机，以及最重要的一项──冲浪板，展开一天的休闲生活。『为了能够好好聚在一起 1 天，我们 1 个月前就把假排好了，』莉萨解释，她拿着 9 呎的长板和男友于永杰走过沙滩，准备冲浪，为了接近海边，莉萨辞掉了台北的服装设计师工作，搬到恒春，转眼 7 年。